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What Matters #6
Assessing the quality factors of watches.
Published by: Jun Kai
Published by: Jun Kai
Aug 07, 2024
In the “What Matters” series, we share the elements that affect our watch collections. While this may seem personal, we find it an excellent opportunity to share our love for the aspects of horology that matter to us the most: From the particular complications of the watches to our indulgence in strap-changing, or simply our enjoyment of quartz and mechanical timepieces. This series will take us on a journey into this niche hobby to better understand what keeps our passion fired up. Our obsessions keep drawing us back to inform people who are into watches so they can form a consensus with us. Without any further ado, let’s get things started with “What Matters” to us in our voyage of watch-collecting.
How Do We Tell What’s A Quality Timepiece?
Watches in the market today ranges widely and with that comes a wide array of quality. One would naturally think that the price will be correlated to quality, but is this the case? It is very difficult for one to tell, especially myself who is still relatively inexperienced in the watch industry. Why would a watch with similar specs, material and design with a little deviation cause a price difference of tens of thousands of dollars? If you take away the brand and positioning behind every watch, do you think what is on your wrist a good watch?
In my journey diving ever deeper into the world of horology, the natural question pops up for any and every novice. A simple question yet complex with a lot of depth and personal variation. The question was, “How does one determine the quality of watches?”. Popping my question to Samuel, an expert with more than 10 years in the watch industry, I began to explore more the aspects of watch making that indicated a watch is well-made.
Is It Materials?
I thought where else to start other than the very flesh used in watch making, the materials. The materials used in watch making vary widely through the years. So much so that to cover all the materials will be an article of itself. Focusing on the main ones of today are stainless steel, bronze, ceramic, gold, titanium, with titanium and gold being the most premium. Ceramic is characterized by their scratch and heat resistance, the usual 316L stainless steel is known for its resistant to rust and corrosion, titanium is known for being three times stronger than steel and yet twice as light with its signature grey tone and bronze for its resistant to seawater corrosion and beautiful aging. Each material has its own distinction and price range but what differentiates the watch is the process and execution. Sam showed me a Citizen watch, The Citizen Eco-Drive Tosa Washi White Ref. AQ4091-56A. A titanium piece with a rare, polished finish only achievable through an intricate process known as “Zaratsu”. He shared Citizen has great craftsmanship which can be felt in the edges of the watch. A defined and yet not sharp in a way that hurts to touch.
This reminds me of an exchange I had with a representative from Rado whom had 20 years of experience in the watch industry, Nelson. He shared with me the art of ceramic making. To use ceramic as a watch making material requires a lot of skill. The normal ceramic comes in the form of powder which is white. Once blasted at high heat, naturally becomes black. Which becomes rather difficult when you want a selected shade of colour for a type of watch. Any short of perfection in the process can result in a slightly different shade, to which that very batch of watch will all be scrapped. When I learnt this at the back of my head I am thinking “How many of such unique and demanding requirements for quality control goes into watch making that I do not yet know of?”. Certainly, with this knowledge, you can come to appreciate those well-crafted watches that takes years of experience and can most definitely classify them as “high quality”.
Watch Band Matters Too Right?
A commonly downplayed aspect of the watch is in the bracelet. Many times, most people are too caught up in the case and the dials of the watch, but they do not really factor in the bracelet of the watch. When in fact, is a good indicator to the diligence behind the watch maker’s efforts as some watch makers would sacrifice quality in the bracelet to focus on the case and dial. A first look indicator would be the finishes and edges of the bracelet but to really understand you have to look at the links themselves. Are the end links solid? Is the clasp secure? You would not want the clasp to give way and cause you to drop your beloved watch. We can also look at the bracelet types and the system that holds it in place. The ever-reliable pin and collar system can be found most commonly and every so versatile. At the premium end we can look for the screwed in links to make the watch much more suited to your wrists. If you have an opportunity to wear it for yourself, do test it out and ask yourself whether the watch is breathable, and if it bites your skin. These are important considerations when looking out for well-made bracelets.
For straps on the other hand, would be a whole article itself as there are countless things that goes into strap making. But generally, you want to look for a durable and attractive strap. It is important to look into the material for something like leather usually top grain or full grained are highly sort after. But more importantly is to look at the process of how these materials are integrated together. Processes such as bonding should be cautioned as it can really come apart as time goes. Instead, we can look for real leather or faux as they are much more durable. To go more extensively into the topic, you can read up here as well.
How About The Mechanical Components?
Naturally moving forward, all watch enthusiasts would agree that the movement in the watch itself is a good indication of quality. If the materials are the flesh of a watch, the movement design is the very heart. Gnomon founder, Ander, shared that when looking at movement of a watch, it is not so easily measurable in terms of quality. If you want to look at accuracy, no automatic watch will ever compare to that of a quartz watch. But watch enthusiast can’t resist automatic movement because of the ingenuity of the technology inside the watches. As a starter, one can look into the movement origin, whether it is an inhouse, or third-party movement: a Japanese or Swiss movement. This can give reliability to the functionality and durability of the watch. Usually, brands stick to a frequency of 4Hz which makes 4 oscillations per second. The higher the frequency, the more accurate the watches usually are. However, brands would shy away due to potential wear and tear from higher oscillations. Brands who are confident in their craftsmanship or would like to put in special effort for limited edition/collaborations will crank it up.
Taking a step further, we can really look at the movement finishing through an open case back to really appreciate the fine delicacy of a watch. This is where the watch makers show off their technique and finishing touches on a watch. We can look at the engraving on the watch, the fine details on the rotor and gears. There are plenty of finishing types used in watch movements. Geneva Stripes (Côtes de Genève) which involves parallel lines engraved on a component, usually the bridges, creating a striped pattern. Perlage (Circular Graining) which consist of small, overlapping circles are engraved onto a surface, typically the mainplate or bridges. Anglage (Chamfering) where edges of bridges and other components are beveled for a polished and refined appearance. This requires precision and is often done by skilled craftsmen by hand.
The Personal Experience
When all is said and you have covered all visible aspects of the watch, the true test of quality lies in the hands-on experience. Like how you can never understand someone until you walk a mile in their shoe’s, you can never fully understand a watch until you wear it. A true testament of watch quality is in its durability in proper, everyday contexts. This highlights the importance of reviews by other watch enthusiasts and professionals who have put the watch to the test. Does the technology used in the watch really deliver? Reviews such as the one we frequently post on our site (link) where we are transparent about how the watch functions in everyday life in our professional opinion.
In summary, watches encompass a vast spectrum in terms of quality and price, often challenging the notion that prices always correlate with superior quality. Watch’s value extends beyond its brand and positioning. When choosing a watch, be sure to assess its craftsmanship in details and durability. Materials, craftsmanship, movement, finishes and attention to detail all just some of the many extensive factors that are pivotal in determining a timepiece’s quality. From meticulous finishing, to tasking processes to commitment to quality, every aspect contributes to a watch’s excellence. Which really leaves you curiously asking every time “Is that a good watch?”
That being said, if you want to know my take on the The Citizen Eco-Drive Tosa Washi White Ref. AQ4091-56A which is a personal favourite, you can check out my article here.
How Do We Tell What’s A Quality Timepiece?
 |
| Is an under $1000USD Swiss made piece a quality one? |
Watches in the market today ranges widely and with that comes a wide array of quality. One would naturally think that the price will be correlated to quality, but is this the case? It is very difficult for one to tell, especially myself who is still relatively inexperienced in the watch industry. Why would a watch with similar specs, material and design with a little deviation cause a price difference of tens of thousands of dollars? If you take away the brand and positioning behind every watch, do you think what is on your wrist a good watch?
In my journey diving ever deeper into the world of horology, the natural question pops up for any and every novice. A simple question yet complex with a lot of depth and personal variation. The question was, “How does one determine the quality of watches?”. Popping my question to Samuel, an expert with more than 10 years in the watch industry, I began to explore more the aspects of watch making that indicated a watch is well-made.
 |
|
One of my recent a-week-on-the-wrist piece that blew my mind.
|
Is It Materials?
I thought where else to start other than the very flesh used in watch making, the materials. The materials used in watch making vary widely through the years. So much so that to cover all the materials will be an article of itself. Focusing on the main ones of today are stainless steel, bronze, ceramic, gold, titanium, with titanium and gold being the most premium. Ceramic is characterized by their scratch and heat resistance, the usual 316L stainless steel is known for its resistant to rust and corrosion, titanium is known for being three times stronger than steel and yet twice as light with its signature grey tone and bronze for its resistant to seawater corrosion and beautiful aging. Each material has its own distinction and price range but what differentiates the watch is the process and execution. Sam showed me a Citizen watch, The Citizen Eco-Drive Tosa Washi White Ref. AQ4091-56A. A titanium piece with a rare, polished finish only achievable through an intricate process known as “Zaratsu”. He shared Citizen has great craftsmanship which can be felt in the edges of the watch. A defined and yet not sharp in a way that hurts to touch.
 |
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The Rado Clads a full ceramic body
|
 |
|
The titanium case of the Citizen looks as premium as its “stainless steel” siblings
|
This reminds me of an exchange I had with a representative from Rado whom had 20 years of experience in the watch industry, Nelson. He shared with me the art of ceramic making. To use ceramic as a watch making material requires a lot of skill. The normal ceramic comes in the form of powder which is white. Once blasted at high heat, naturally becomes black. Which becomes rather difficult when you want a selected shade of colour for a type of watch. Any short of perfection in the process can result in a slightly different shade, to which that very batch of watch will all be scrapped. When I learnt this at the back of my head I am thinking “How many of such unique and demanding requirements for quality control goes into watch making that I do not yet know of?”. Certainly, with this knowledge, you can come to appreciate those well-crafted watches that takes years of experience and can most definitely classify them as “high quality”.
Watch Band Matters Too Right?
 |
|
The Alpina’s bracelet feels as good as its case, which is rather rare in the market.
|
A commonly downplayed aspect of the watch is in the bracelet. Many times, most people are too caught up in the case and the dials of the watch, but they do not really factor in the bracelet of the watch. When in fact, is a good indicator to the diligence behind the watch maker’s efforts as some watch makers would sacrifice quality in the bracelet to focus on the case and dial. A first look indicator would be the finishes and edges of the bracelet but to really understand you have to look at the links themselves. Are the end links solid? Is the clasp secure? You would not want the clasp to give way and cause you to drop your beloved watch. We can also look at the bracelet types and the system that holds it in place. The ever-reliable pin and collar system can be found most commonly and every so versatile. At the premium end we can look for the screwed in links to make the watch much more suited to your wrists. If you have an opportunity to wear it for yourself, do test it out and ask yourself whether the watch is breathable, and if it bites your skin. These are important considerations when looking out for well-made bracelets.
 |
|
The one on Steinhart’s Ocean series serves its purpose too.
|
For straps on the other hand, would be a whole article itself as there are countless things that goes into strap making. But generally, you want to look for a durable and attractive strap. It is important to look into the material for something like leather usually top grain or full grained are highly sort after. But more importantly is to look at the process of how these materials are integrated together. Processes such as bonding should be cautioned as it can really come apart as time goes. Instead, we can look for real leather or faux as they are much more durable. To go more extensively into the topic, you can read up here as well.
How About The Mechanical Components?
 |
|
The Alpina caliber bestows an Alpine shaped rotor.
|
Naturally moving forward, all watch enthusiasts would agree that the movement in the watch itself is a good indication of quality. If the materials are the flesh of a watch, the movement design is the very heart. Gnomon founder, Ander, shared that when looking at movement of a watch, it is not so easily measurable in terms of quality. If you want to look at accuracy, no automatic watch will ever compare to that of a quartz watch. But watch enthusiast can’t resist automatic movement because of the ingenuity of the technology inside the watches. As a starter, one can look into the movement origin, whether it is an inhouse, or third-party movement: a Japanese or Swiss movement. This can give reliability to the functionality and durability of the watch. Usually, brands stick to a frequency of 4Hz which makes 4 oscillations per second. The higher the frequency, the more accurate the watches usually are. However, brands would shy away due to potential wear and tear from higher oscillations. Brands who are confident in their craftsmanship or would like to put in special effort for limited edition/collaborations will crank it up.
 |
| The in-house caliber from Orient Star is quite a good starter for watch beginners. |
Taking a step further, we can really look at the movement finishing through an open case back to really appreciate the fine delicacy of a watch. This is where the watch makers show off their technique and finishing touches on a watch. We can look at the engraving on the watch, the fine details on the rotor and gears. There are plenty of finishing types used in watch movements. Geneva Stripes (Côtes de Genève) which involves parallel lines engraved on a component, usually the bridges, creating a striped pattern. Perlage (Circular Graining) which consist of small, overlapping circles are engraved onto a surface, typically the mainplate or bridges. Anglage (Chamfering) where edges of bridges and other components are beveled for a polished and refined appearance. This requires precision and is often done by skilled craftsmen by hand.
The Personal Experience
 |
| I was personally wowed by how meticulously the Citizen watch is executed. |
When all is said and you have covered all visible aspects of the watch, the true test of quality lies in the hands-on experience. Like how you can never understand someone until you walk a mile in their shoe’s, you can never fully understand a watch until you wear it. A true testament of watch quality is in its durability in proper, everyday contexts. This highlights the importance of reviews by other watch enthusiasts and professionals who have put the watch to the test. Does the technology used in the watch really deliver? Reviews such as the one we frequently post on our site (link) where we are transparent about how the watch functions in everyday life in our professional opinion.
 |
|
Heavy price tag does not equates to a quality watch.
|
In summary, watches encompass a vast spectrum in terms of quality and price, often challenging the notion that prices always correlate with superior quality. Watch’s value extends beyond its brand and positioning. When choosing a watch, be sure to assess its craftsmanship in details and durability. Materials, craftsmanship, movement, finishes and attention to detail all just some of the many extensive factors that are pivotal in determining a timepiece’s quality. From meticulous finishing, to tasking processes to commitment to quality, every aspect contributes to a watch’s excellence. Which really leaves you curiously asking every time “Is that a good watch?”
